A Twirl Through Time: The History of Pasta
Few foods are as beloved—and as versatile—as pasta. From a simple bowl of spaghetti aglio e olio to elaborate lasagnas layered with cheese and sauce, pasta is the ultimate comfort food. But behind its humble ingredients lies a rich and winding history that spans centuries, continents, and cultures.
The Myth: Marco Polo and the Chinese Noodles
A common legend claims that 13th-century Venetian explorer Marco Polo brought pasta to Italy from China. While it’s true that Polo encountered noodles in Asia, the idea that pasta was unknown in Italy before his return in 1295 is a myth. In fact, references to pasta-like dishes in Italy predate Polo’s travels by at least a century.
Arabic writings from the 9th century describe itriyya, a dry, string-like pasta made in Sicily, which was under Arab rule at the time. The technique of drying pasta likely originated here, allowing it to be stored and transported long distances—a key feature in pasta’s eventual global popularity.
Early Roots in the Mediterranean
Long before the Arab influence, ancient civilizations around the Mediterranean were already experimenting with dough-based foods. The Greeks and Romans both had dishes resembling pasta, often made by mixing flour and water and then baking or frying the resulting dough. However, these early preparations lacked the refinement and variety we associate with modern pasta.
In fact, the word "macaroni" comes from the Greek makaria, a barley-based broth offered at funerals. Over time, that word morphed into "maccheroni" in Italy, eventually referring to various types of pasta.
The Role of Durum Wheat
One of the key turning points in pasta’s history was the widespread use of durum wheat, a hard variety that grows well in southern Italy’s dry climate. Durum’s high protein content makes it ideal for forming sturdy dough that can be rolled, shaped, and dried. This made mass production feasible and turned pasta into a staple rather than a luxury.
By the 13th and 14th centuries, pasta-making was becoming a legitimate trade in places like Genoa and Palermo. Artisans created early forms of long pasta, pressed through bronze dies, and dried in the sun. This development meant pasta could be produced on a larger scale and sold to a growing urban population.
Pasta Meets the Tomato
One of the most pivotal moments in pasta’s history came in the 16th century, when tomatoes were brought to Europe from the Americas. Initially met with suspicion—some even thought they were poisonous—tomatoes eventually found their place in southern Italian cuisine.
By the late 18th century, tomatoes and pasta were a culinary match made in heaven. Naples, in particular, became known for its street vendors selling spaghetti with tomato sauce, eaten with just fingers and a hunk of bread. This affordable, delicious food helped popularize pasta among the masses, not just the wealthy.
The Pasta Boom in the 19th Century
Industrialization in the 19th century transformed pasta from a regional specialty into a national symbol of Italy. Pasta factories emerged across the country, especially in Gragnano, a town near Naples known for its ideal drying conditions. Mechanization allowed pasta to be made faster and cheaper, and new shapes began to emerge—from penne to farfalle to fusilli.
At the same time, Italian immigrants carried pasta with them to the United States, Argentina, and beyond. In the U.S., pasta became an important part of Italian-American cuisine, evolving into hearty dishes like baked ziti and spaghetti and meatballs, which have since become part of America’s culinary identity.
A Dish Without Borders
Today, pasta is everywhere. It’s been embraced and adapted by cultures around the world: think of ramen in Japan, noodle kugel in Jewish cooking, or mac and cheese in American kitchens. While Italy remains pasta’s spiritual home, the food’s global reach is undeniable.
Despite this ubiquity, pasta continues to evolve. From gluten-free and whole wheat options to artisan small-batch producers and inventive chefs, pasta reflects both tradition and innovation.
Why Pasta Endures
Part of pasta’s magic lies in its simplicity: just flour and water (or eggs, depending on the type). Yet with these basic ingredients, home cooks can create an endless array of dishes—light or rich, rustic or refined. It’s food for every season, every occasion, and every budget.
Understanding its long history—from ancient grains and sun-drenched streets in Sicily to factory lines and global dinner tables—adds another layer of appreciation. When you roll out dough by hand or open a box of penne, you're not just making dinner. You're participating in a story that's been unfolding for over a thousand years.
By: Jenny Lee